The smell of fish and chips combines with the iodine aroma of the sea, but disappears as soon as you delve into the intertwining narrow streets of the old town. All around the town people cruise around in gleaming Nissan Figaros, marvel at the Victorian buildings - some built in brick and others not - and above all dander along the sea front, from the town centre to Botany Bay. Springtime here is a dive into icy water, eating oysters on the harbour steps, days divided between vintage shopping trips and museum visits.